The title “Bottle
Shock,” like all good titles, is a play on words. On the one
hand, it refers to a phenomenon that viniculturists have debated
for years; some believe that long-distance travel can alter the
taste of wine, possibly as the result of an oxidation process. On
the other hand, it refers to the shocking 1976 wine-tasting contest
between French and Napa Valley, California wineries. You may have
heard a great deal about this contest. Then again, maybe you haven’t,
so I won’t reveal which side won. It’s probably better
if you don’t know anyway, since half the fun of this movie
is anticipating the climactic contest. Everything building up to
it makes for a charming, witty, and at times highly emotional story,
not at all unlike a well-made sports movie. In this case, the underdogs
are California wine-makers, who at one time were not taken seriously;
no one, especially the French, believed that the Americans were
capable of producing anything other than Thunderbird.
In the film, one of these skeptics is Steven Spurrier (Alan Rickman),
a British connoisseur operating a failing wine academy in Paris.
One fateful day, his sole customer--an American travel agent named
Maurice (Dennis Farina)--lets him in on a little secret: insider
reports say that wines produced in Napa Valley are rivaling the
best French wines. Intrigued, Spurrier travels to California and
begins touring the various wineries. If the wines are as good
as they claim to be, he hopes to bring them back to France and
organize a blind taste test. He soon finds himself at the Chateau
Montenela, a struggling Napa Valley winery owned by Jim Barrett
(Bill Pullman). Stubborn vintner that he is, Barrett is convinced
that Spurrier isn’t actually interested in California wines;
he only wants to make the United States look foolish in a predetermined
contest. It’s true that Spurrier is a bit of a snob. At
one point, he says that he’s not a jerk: “It’s
just that I’m British and ... you’re not.” Be
that as it may, his discerning palate is quickly adapting to Napa
Valley wines, which he feels are of a very high quality.
If this were the full extent of the story, “Bottle Shock”
probably wouldn’t be any better or worse than the average
contest film. Fortunately, a couple of interwoven subplots make
the film much more interesting, not only because they add appropriate
touches of human drama, but also because they balance the story.
One focuses on the relationship between Barrett and his son, Bo
(Chris Pine), a twenty-something slacker who has quit school and
has absolutely no ambition. He doesn’t seem to realize how
much his father is suffering, mostly due to financial problems
and the fact that he won’t let anyone help him; he would
rather fail on his own than succeed with assistance. Judging by
his reaction to Spurrier, Barrett is also bitter and distrustful,
probably because of his failed marriage. Bo thinks his father
is just pigheaded, which is probably why he escapes the winery
as often as he can. The two regularly vent their frustrations
in a makeshift outdoor boxing ring, and while I’m not sure
anything was solved that way, at least I recognized the symbolism
of father/son relationships.